Why Energy Efficient And System Built Homes Thrive In This Economy?

Today's energy efficient homes are built to meet or exceed the government's 5 STAR requirements for energy efficiency. Consider the following: when gas prices are higher, people will drive by several stations looking for a cheaper price or bargain- instead simply stooping at the first station that is most convenient.

Real estate, new home purchasers seem to follow the same trend. There are many first time home buyers who are still looking building homes all over the country. But not as many as in the recent years. Those buyers are just scrutinizing their investment more. They are shopping multiple builders, researching energy efficient house and system built homes on the internet, etc. at much more higher rate then before. The inflation, which is increased cost of land, building materials and labor have slowed the market, but have also created a great opportunity for builders of energy efficient house building systems. Those builders who stand the scrutiny of being compared to many other possibilities have much better chance to stay in business.

A slowdown can spell doom to many builders using traditional construction methods, as it is nearly impossible to price much less than other builders without offering less quality/features. However, is stark contrast, energy efficient house with System Built Homes thrive in this market as we able to offer homes that match (or often exceed) quality/feature standards while offering a much competitive price than houses are built with regular stick building. While the slower market dictates less and more scrutinies buyers, an energy efficient house with System Built Homes have the ability to attract more of these buyers.

You can find more information by visiting energy efficient home website for more data on the latest energy efficient house construction trend. If you're interested to find out how you can have your energy efficient System Built Home designed, please contact us at Residential Design.

Wood Post And Beam Connection

Going "Green" in Your Home

As our society gets more conscious of our impact on the environment, many consumers are concerned about "living green". And while it's important to worry about what we drive, and what we eat, and what we spray into the air, one of the biggest impacts on our planet often goes overlooked - our homes. A house require a great deal of natural resources to be built and large amounts of energy to keep maintained. Many new home builders are building homes specifically designed to have a smaller environmental "footprint", but there are things that everyone can do in their homes to help save the planet.

1. Harness the Power of the Sun - Lower your energy bills and help the environment by looking into the possibility of using solar power to help power your home. Many states offer varying types of incentives to install solar panels. Even with incentives, the upfront investment can be a little pricey, but you're guaranteed to make your money back eventually in the savings on your utility bills.

2. Energy Efficient Appliances - Many companies that manufacture home appliances now have energy-efficient models. Next time you decide to remodel your kitchen, consider switching to these models.

3. Insulation - Improper insulation can be one of the biggest contributors to wasteful energy in your home. By ensuring that your home is properly insulated, you increase the efficiency of your heating and cooling units and reduce the amount of energy (and money) required to run them.

4. Planting the Seeds - It may sound simple or hokey, but one of the easiest and most effective ways to help your environment is to plant trees. Not only will you be contributing to clean air and making the world a more beautiful place, but trees will also provide shade to your home during the hot summer months, making it easier and somewhat cheaper to keep cool. And when you're ready to sell, the boost to your curb appeal that comes from a beautiful yard doesn't hurt either.

5. Avoiding pesticides - There are many types of pesticides on the market that are not only harmful to the environment, but also to you and your pets, due to the toxic compounds that they contain. Look for pesticides that are environmentally safe or try to avoid them altogether.

6. Open your windows - On a sunny day, turn off your lights and open your blinds and let the natural light in. If the weather is nice and cool, turn your AC off and open up your windows. Give your utilities a much-needed rest.

7. Sealing the gaps - Go around your home and make sure that any gaps in the windows and doors leading outside are properly sealed. The focus is on efficiency and it's hard to efficiently cool or heat your home while air is leaking in and out.

8. Try Xeriscaping - Xeriscaping is a new form of landscaping that uses indigenous plans and specially designed irrigation to landscape your yard. The local plants respond much better to your local weather and will - once grown out effectively - need much less care and watering to maintain.

There are many, many other ways to reduce your environmental footprint, from recycling to riding your bike to work. Consider some of these options to help keep your home environmentally friendly. And remember, the planet isn't the only thing you're saving. An energy-efficient home costs less to maintain. Increasing the green of your home will eventually increase the green in your wallet.

Lee Cameron is a professional REALTOR serving the Orlando real estate market. Lee has consistently proven his talent and knowledge in the real estate business and is known to his flair the business and the care with which he treats his clients. For more info on homes & properties in Orlando contact Lee today.

Shaky Garage Door Track

Installing Drywall - Mudding and Taping

Installing Drywall, or hanging drywall as the professionals usually refer to the task, can be done by the homeowner. However, it is usually best done with two or more people as it requires significant lifting of heavy material. Mudding and Taping can also be performed by the homeowner, however these tasks require some practice and artistry.

Measuring and Ordering Drywall

Prior to actually hanging the drywall, the material first needs to be ordered and delivered. To determine how much material to order, measure all of the surface area, starting with the ceilings and then the walls. Calculate the total square feet and divide by 32. The result should give you the number of 4'x 8' sheets of drywall required for the job. I would also recommend adding another 5-10% to this figure to account for inefficiencies. Drywall does come in larger sheets, such as 4'x12', however for a Do-it-Yourself homeowner these larger sheets can become unwieldy and maybe even impossible to bring into the existing home.

For bathrooms or other moist areas Greenboard should probably be used as this material is moisture resistance.

For bathroom areas where ceramic tile is to be applied, e.g. Shower/Bathtub areas, Concrete board should be used. The concrete board is also referred to as Wonderboard or Durock.

Joint Compound and Fiberglass tape will also be required for Taping and Mudding. Joint Compound typically comes ready-mixed in 5 gallon containers. I would suggest 1-2 containers per 500 square feet of drywall. Fiberglass tape is quite inexpensive so I would suggest picking up 2 to 3 roles for most Do-it-Yourself drywall projects.

Drywall screws or ringed nails will also be required. Typically I use 1.25" length screws or nails. Also, strips of corner bead will be required.

Drywall Tools

Prior to starting drywall installation, you need to obtain the proper tools. A Drywall Lift really comes in handy when hanging sheetrock/drywall on the ceilings. You can rent Drywall Lifts at hardware or home improvement stores. If your budget does not allow for this cost, Jacks (or Ts) can be made out of 2"x 4"s. The Jacks (or Ts) should be of a length such that they are just an inch or two taller than the height of the ceiling and have a cross beam that is approximately 3' in width. Usually there are a couple of 45o angle braces connecting the crossbar to the main stem of the Jack. The Jack can then be used to hold up the drywall to the ceiling while it is screwed/nailed into place.

In addition to the Lift or Jacks, a drywall screw gun, hammer, T-square, carpenters knife, drywall saw and a keyhole saw are required. The keyhole saw is used for cutting around electrical boxes.

If mudding and taping are to be performed then Taping knifes, a Corner knife, sand paper, a pole sander and a Mud easel or pan will be necessary. For the taping knifes you will need a 6" wide blade and a 12" wide blade.

Preparing the site for Drywall

Prior to hanging the drywall, make sure the building inspector has first approved the Framing, Plumbing, Electrical and Insulation jobs. Secondly, a vapor barrier should be applied over the insulation on the outside walls if un-faced insulation was installed. Frequently sheets of plastic are used for creating the vapor barrier. The plastic is simply stapled to the framing, covering the insulation.

Finally, inspect all of the framing carefully. Ensure that nailers (e.g. 2" x 4"s) are existent at each corner and header, that the framing is straight, and that the framed walls create smooth planes. In addition, the ceiling should have strapping applied (1" x 3" cross boards). Also, make sure metal protection plates have been installed to studding where sheetrock screws or nails could inadvertently penetrate plumbing pipes or electrical wire.

Safety

Drywall installation is dirty, heavy work. The Gypsum in drywall can be irritating to the eyes, lungs and sinuses so wear safety goggles and masks to avoid breathing in the material. Gloves are also recommended to protect against sharp blades.

Installing Drywall

Start with the ceiling as this will allow the sheets on the walls to help hold the sheets on the ceiling. Use the Drywall lift or Jacks to hold the sheets in place while screwing or nailing them to the ceiling. The screws or nails should be installed such that they are slightly recessed and create a small dimple without breaking the paper. Screws or nails should be applied every 8 to 12 inches on each stud. Screws are typically stronger and can be placed further apart, e.g. 12 inches. It is best to fasten the screws/nails to the edges of the drywall first and then fill in the field afterwards.

Rows of drywall should be applied in a staggered pattern. This will create an interlocked pattern that creates a tighter and stronger ceiling/wall.

After the ceiling has been completed it its time to move on to the walls. Drywall should be applied from the top down, with the sheets hung perpendicular to the floor joists or studs. Again the rows should be staggered. The bottom piece should sit about inches from the sub-floor.

For purposes of efficiency and strength it is best to apply the large sheets of drywall over the doors and window openings and cut out the excess later. This will create stronger/cleaner looking walls and save significant time.

Installing Corner bead

Once the drywall has been installed, corner bead should be applied to all outside edges. Corner bead should be nailed every 6-8 inches and penetrate the framing.

Taping and Mudding

Again start with the ceiling. Apply a skim coat of joint compound over the surface of a seam using a 6" wide taping knife. If the seam is wide, apply a liberal amount of joint compound to fill it. While the Joint compound is still wet, apply the fiberglass tape over the skim coat of Joint Compound. Make sure the seam is centered under the tape. Once the tape has been installed, apply additional Joint Compound over the tape, again using the 6" wide taping knife. Continue this for all of the seams. Note: the tape will still be visible. Additional coats will eventually hide it.

The inside corners are usually the most tricky and require practice. Patience is the best advice and note that additional coats will be applied later to smooth out any imperfections.

Once the seams are done, using the 6" wide taping knife, apply mud to all of the screw/nail dimples. A skim coat is all that is initially required.

Note: When applying the mud over the tape and screw/nail dimples, make sure all excess material and uneven patches are smoothed down with the blade. This will reduce sanding later.

Once the ceiling is done, you can move on to the walls. Repeat the same process, however with the outside corners just apply a liberal coat of joint compound to the valley that is formed by the corner bead. This valley typically represents the first 3 or 4 inches from the edge of the corner.

Once the first coat has been applied let it sit overnight or until it is dry, prior to starting the second application of Joint compound. Make sure to completely clean off the taping knife, the mud easel and any other containers or instruments that have mud on them prior to finishing up for the day.

Applying the Second Coat of Mud

After the first coat has thoroughly dried, it is now time to apply the second coat of mud. It is this coat that should hide the tape.

Again, start with the ceiling. Using the wider taping knife apply a generous amount of joint compound over the taped seams as you want to build up the area over the tape. Taking large strokes smooth the joint compound over the tape applying more pressure to the side of the taping knife further away from the tape. This will help to leave more mud over the tape. When complete, the mud should cover an area that extends beyond the width of the tape by 2 to 3 inches.

After the seams have all been completed, apply a second coat of mud over the screw/nail dimples. With this second coat, flare out the mud over the dimples such that the diameter of the mudded area is about 3-4 inches in diameter.

For the inside corners a Corner knife may come in handy. Corners involve a little artistry so again take your time. Apply a generous amount of joint compound and then run the Corner knife down the corner starting from the top. Take long, even strokes. A 6" taping knife may also be helpful to smooth out any imperfections.

For the outside corners, using the broad taping knife apply a generous amount of joint compound and flare out the material such that it extends out 6 inches or so from the corner. Again, apply more pressure to the blade side that is further away from the corner so that you leave more mud nearer the outside corner.

Once the second coat has been applied let it sit overnight or until it is dry, prior to starting the final application of Joint compound. Make sure to completely clean off the taping knife, the mud easel and any other containers or instruments that have mud on them prior to finishing up for the day.

Applying the Final Coat of Mud

After the first coat has thoroughly dried, it is now time to apply the final coat of mud. It is this coat that requires the most artistry and the least amount of joint compound. Here you are simply applying a final skim coat to the already mudded areas.

Prior to applying the skim coat it is best to take your wide taping blade and lightly pass over the mudded surfaces. This will remove any bumps or ridges.

Again start with the ceiling seams and apply a small amount of joint compound using the broad taping knife. Again continue to flare out the seam by extending the mudded area such that about 6 inches resides on each side of the now invisible tape. Remember this is a skim coat so little mud is required. The purpose of this coat is to effectively fill in any lines or recessed areas.

After the seams have all been completed, apply a final coat of mud over the screw/nail dimples. With this second coat, flare out the mud over the dimples such that the diameter of the mudded area is about 6-8 inches in diameter.

For the corners use the broad taping knife and add just enough mud such that you can flare out the mudded surface area to about 8-12 inches, taking care to filling in any lines or dimples.

Once the final coat has been applied let it rest overnight or until it is dry,

Sanding

Sanding is a very dusty and dirty mess so please uses goggles and a mask.
I find it best to use a pole sander with an open screened sand paper material specifically designed for sanding sheetrock/drywall mud.

Lightly sand all of the taped areas, however concentrate sanding on the outer edges of the mudded areas such that all seams and ridges are eliminated and blend into the main surface areas.

Once sanding is complete, vacuum up the dust and you are ready for priming and painting the walls and texturing the ceilings.

About the Author: Over the past 20+ years Mark Donovan has been involved with building homes and additions to homes. His projects have included: building a vacation home, building additions and garages on to existing homes, and finishing unfinished homes. For more information about Home Improvement and Home Additions, and Home Remodeling and Repair visit homeadditionplus.com and homeaddition.blogspot.com

Bathtub Building Code Problem

Finding a House Painter - San Deigo Home Tips

There are many reasons why you should hire a house painter, but knowing exactly how to go about it can be confusing. If you want professional-looking results and none of the stress of doing it yourself, follow these few easy steps to finding a painter who fits your needs.

The easiest way to begin your search is through the Internet. Only there can you quickly find contacts and information that can get you on your way to having a beautifully painted home. Using the Internet also has additional benefits that will be discussed later.

In the search engine of your choice, type in your area name followed by the word painter. Focusing your search to painters in your area is important because only they can know exactly the type of paint and method to use for your particular region. Select a few reliable-looking Web sites and begin browsing the company's information, taking notes on each. In particular, be on the lookout for clearly displayed contact details, a promising statement regarding the company's mission, and most important, testimonials and pictures of past work. An accessible Web site that contains testimonials and a portfolio is a sure sign that the painter takes his or her work seriously.

As you are browsing each company's site, take note of the services each offers and if these match up to your current needs. The best painters offer services that include, but are not limited to,

Complete interior and exterior house painting
Specialty and faux finishes
Green/low VOC coatings
Wallpaper hanging and removal
Power Washing and mildew removal
Comprehensive project and surface evaluation
Detailed painting specification and estimating
Color consultation and schematics
Prompt and accurate scheduling
Smart job management and supervision
Thorough surface preparation
Minor carpentry and dry rot repair
Consistent, on time completion of painting projects
Quality workmanship and materials
Two-year free touch up service.

Eliminate any painters from your list that do not offer services for your required project. Once you have narrowed the list to at least two prospects, contact them and invite them to you home to give you a bid. Ask for a copy of the bid to compare with your final bill. All that's left now is to hire the bidder that you feel best matches your needs and price range, and you're on your way to having a beautifully painted house.

Schmidt Painting (http://schmidtpainting.net/) is a Cape Cod painter with more than ten years of experience producing quality work. Rachel Spohn is a freelance writer.

Plant Covering Window

Remodeling Books Save Time and Money

The other day, I was surfing the Internet and came upon an online home building bookstore that put together a website with the best-selling home building books on the market today. These books range from basic carpentry to advanced structural engineering and everything else you could possibly think of that could be related to the home building, selling, remodeling and construction process.

I couldn't believe the simple and easy to use. Here's a list of some of their books selections.

Photo Guide to Home Repair - The most up-to-date, complete, and useful guide to home repair a homeowner can have. With more than 350 projects and 2300 photos, virtually every home repair challenge.

Exterior Siding, Trim & Finishes - This first ever compilation by Fine Homebuilding on the popular subject provides builders with ideas for choosing the correct finishes for home exteriors, plus solid how-to information.

Flipping Houses - This book is designed for realty investors who want to profit from buying below market, making cosmetic improvements to add value, and then quickly reselling.

Bathroom Remodeling - Remodeling a bathroom is a challenge - it's action-oriented and requires extra energy and stamina. But you, undoubtedly, realize it's a challenge you want to take on.

One $20 house building books or home repairs book, can save you lots of money, if you're willing to do a little research and the labor to complete almost any home building project.

By the way, if you're interested in learning how to repair a roof, build your own house, interior decorating, structural engineering, building a deck, gathering some more information about home painting or even remodeling your bathroom. Our online home building bookstore can save you money if you're willing to do the work.

Greg Vanden Berge is working on the internet to promote the education for creating simple to follow guides and home building books to help professional building contractors as well as the weekend warriors. He has just finished a Home Buyers Guide to take some of the frustration out of home shopping

If your looking for some more Home Remodeling Pictures or home building ideas

Bad Termite Damage To Window

Building Outdoor Kitchens - Do You Need One

How often do you find yourself outdoors is the first question you ask yourself before you go off and plan to build an outdoor kitchen for your home. These days you need to think twice before doing any major renovations on the home. Aside from the major expense that will be required of you, it will also take a major toll on you as you have to supervise the entire project. But if you have the budget and the time to extend your home to include an outdoor kitchen, go ahead.

Aside from the question asked above, there are other major considerations, you need to think about before deciding on having another kitchen outdoors such as visitors. If you are the type of person who has visitors often, then you need an extension of your home. Energy is a given as everybody wants to save up on energy. By having an outdoor kitchen, one gets to save up on energy and energy cost. Space is also major concern. You cannot have this, if you live in a condominium. You have to have a backyard, a space where you can have it.

If you have a big family, having an outdoor kitchen is an advantage. Kids get messy all the time, especially during meal times. By having this, messy times will become fun times! You will no longer mind the mess as long as it's outdoors. As the mess will only be limited to that area and the other parts of the house will no longer be affected.

So start on building that outdoor kitchen and let the good times roll.

Cheryl Forbes owns and operates the website http://www.outdoor-kitchen-concepts.com

Animal Dropping In Attic

Build Deck Stairs in 3 Easy Steps With Adjustable Stair Brackets Vs Traditional Stair Construction

Adjustable brackets have many advantages compared to conventional stair building. With adjustable stair brackets, you can custom fit deck stairs into an exact area, forming any rise or run required. Traditional stair building is rigid and not forgiving. If you miscalculate or need to make some adjustments, then you have to throw out your materials and start all over again.

The adjustable bracket method also differs from conventional stair construction with its ease of installation. The automatic adjustable system only needs 3 saw cuts per stringer and you can make your deck stairs up to 7 feet wide. Only 2 stringers are necessary. No center stringers are needed at all because riser acts as a load-bearing joist, spanning across the stair between the two stringers, giving you stronger stairs. Literally, in 3 steps you can build deck stairs. With the traditional method you must custom cut, align and support several stringers as needed for the stair width. This requires a high degree of skill.

There's a lot less waste of wood too. With traditional stringers you cut away half the strength when forming the stair. Also, you don't have the frustration with math and all the mistakes that come from mathematical error with the new building method. In most cases, a simple adjustment will eliminate the error. This will save you a lot of time.

Adjustable brackets not only adjust, but are also approved as 'joist hangers'. This allows you to attach 2" thick risers that span across the stair like floor joists, every 10" or 11" between the two stringers. This eliminates the need for several center stringers running down the stair as in conventional construction. Since there are only two stringers, you also eliminate the need to align and attach several cut stringers in order to build your stair.

Another benefit to using brackets is that they provide 'code compliant' rail post support. According to the accredited testing, the brackets are used to provide rail post support for any type of wood stair which meets the code requirement for 200lb. Lateral load at 42". Conventional stair building doesn't have a good solution for this rail post attachment problem. If a big person presses on the railing in traditional stair framing, it can easily give way.

In addition to deck stairs, the brackets can be used for interior stairs: basement stairs, tongue and groove stairs, and even concrete formwork.

This is how it works:
Step one: Set the brackets on the two 2x6 stringer members using the spacers and pivot screws.

Step two: Remove spacers and rotate brackets to adjust stair height.

Step 3:Fix brackets in position, attach risers and treads.

Before you begin, determine the exact number of steps you need and exactly how wide you would like your steps to span.

In summary, 8 reasons why adjustable brackets are superior to traditional stair building:
1- Allows for a custom fit.
2- Ease of installation: 2 stringers, 3 saw cuts each
3- Less waste of materials.
4- No math skills required.
5- Simple adjustments correct errors.
6- Approved as joist hangers.
7- They provide 'code compliant' rail post support.
8. Big time savings in comparison.

EZ Stairs products allow builders to build stairs with a wide range of materials such as redwood, cedar, tropical wood, treated wood, untreated wood, vinyl, steel, and composites. This stair building system allows for customized rise and treads configurations which can be adjusted to meet all building codes for any interior or exterior application- ICC approved. It is the only adjustable stair bracket system available anywhere. To help you figure out how many stairs you will need, the website provides a free stair calculator as well.

EZ Stairs introduced the new patented adjustable dual-purpose exterior/interior brackets in 2003. In 2004, it won Pro Sales Magazine's Editor's Choice award for new product innovation in the construction industry. In 2005, it introduced its composite deck compatibility solution and was chosen for LBM Journal's 'Hot Products' Award at the 2005 International Builders Show, and again voted one of the fifty 'Hot Products' at the 2008 International Builders Show.
For more information, visit the ez-stairs.com website or call 866-693-9570.

Small Crack In Floor Slab

Some of Our Favorite Drywall Repair Tips

Repairing drywall is one of those projects that can make a huge difference in the value of a home. With so many people taking advantage of the boom in real estate by purchasing, repairing and reselling homes, learning to repair drywall has obvious monetary benefits. We present here a few of our favorite drywall repair tips.

-In order to repair small holes in drywall, the best procedure is to clean the holes carefully, then dampen them with a sponge. The holes can then be filled in using a professional drywall patching formula. The drywall patch should be applied using a narrow putty knife. If you prefer, these small holes can be repaired by using patching plaster to fill in the holes. After the compound has dried, the area should be primed and painted to match the rest of the wall.

-For patching larger holes, it may be preferable to use precut adhesive wallboard patches. It may be necessary to make the hole wider in order to fit the patch into place. After the precut wallboard has been put into place, the seams should be covered and the patch should be covered with joint compound. When applying the joint compound it is important to follow the directions on the label. After the patch is in place, it should be primed and then painted to match the rest of the surface.

-If nails have popped out from in the drywall, be sure that the panel is well secured to the surrounding studs above and below the nail. The nail should then be hammered in and dimpled. A second nail should be put in and dimpled next to the original nail. Joint compound should then be applied to cover both nails. After the joint compound has been allowed to dry, the area should be primed and painted.

-Small dents in the drywall can be repaired by first sanding the surface thoroughly. Sanding will help to make the edges rough, thus providing a good base for joint compound to adhere to. After the area has been sanded, the dent should be filled with joint compound using a three or four inch spreader. The joint compound should be spread evenly and pressed firmly into the area to be repaired. For large dents it may be necessary to allow the joint compound to dry overnight and then apply a second coat. After the joint compound has dried completely, the area should be sanded, primed and painted.

For more information on home improvement and more information on drywall repair, take a look at our comprehensive home improvement guide at http://www.home-improvement4u.com. Also, check out our forum at: http://www.home-improvement4u.com where you can chat with an expert contractor about drywall repair or any home improvement question you may have.

Brooke Sikula is a freelance writer based in Ventura, CA and maintains her own website at http://www.brookesikula.com. She is also a regular contributor to http://www.get-home-improvement.com.

Old Electrical Wiring

House Drywall Application - Home Building Tips

Let's start with the basic eight-foot sheet of drywall. Most drywall contractors apply drywall horizontally however I have seen some contractors working with metal stud framing install 10 foot sheets of drywall vertically.

The reasons for installing the 10 foot sheets of drywall up and down or vertically in this situation are quite simple. There is no structural strength required in these walls because they are simply partitions dividing rooms and usually the drywall only needs to be finished up to 9 feet. This is the only time I have seen drywall ran vertically.

In a wood framed house the drywall actually adds a little sheer value to the home itself.

The manufacturer suggests installing eight-foot sheets of drywall horizontally. The horizontal application of drywall means installing the 4 foot side of the drywall up and down and the eight-foot side of the drywall side to side.

What is the reason for installing the 4 x 8 sheets horizontally?

When it comes to finishing the drywall the 4 foot seams that run up and down or vertical will not be as noticeable as a seam running up and down the entire wall. If you haven't read one of my last articles on eye level window setting then let me give you a brief eye level education.

A person 5'8" in height will be more apt to notice things between 4'6" off the ground and 6'6" off the ground. If we ran the drywall vertical there is a good chance the eyes would be able to pick up any finishing flaws in the drywall. Running the drywall horizontally will just put us a little out of range from the lower eye level of 4 foot six with our finish.

Another reason for installing the drywall horizontally is there is a good chance your eyes would be able to pick up four foot lines in the wall going from floor to ceiling quite easily. On older homes you will see lines in the ceilings about every 24 inches. This is because the plaster or drywall ceilings is starting to sag in between the ceiling joist.

These lines are difficult to do anything about once the drywall is finished. The only alternative you would have is to remove the ceiling and re-drywall and finish it.

Drywall ran vertically will tend to crack easier than staggered drywall ran horizontally. The four foot section of drywall is stronger than the 8 foot section. If you stagger your drywall breaks every four feet this will increase the strength of your wall as well.

Try not to break the drywall at any door openings. The door openings seem to crack easily from the corners working their way towards the ceiling. Let the drywall run over the doorway and then cut the doorway out leaving the rough door opening during wallboard installation.

If you have ever seen a house that was drywalled by a professional crew the waste is unbelievable. The reason for this is simply that the drywall contractor does not want to come back and patch cracks in the walls three or four years after he is done. It can be quite labor intensive installing scrap pieces of drywall versus using larger sheets to cover the same area.

Don't forget and always remember that. Horizontal installation of drywall is recommended by the manufacturer.

Greg Vanden Berge is working on the internet to promote the education for creating simple to follow guides and home building books to help professional building contractors as well as the weekend warriors. He is currently working on more Building and Remodeling Library and adding useful content to help solve problems created by the lack of construction knowledge in the building industry.

Roof Fascia Section Repair

Get The Best Estimate For The Cost Of A Remodel

The cost of your remodel depends upon several factors such as the cost of materials and fixtures, the extent of your remodeling plans and whether you choose to hire a general contractor or do it yourself.. Finding the right general contractor and subcontractors can be a big challenge. You can save time searching by getting free quotes from prescreened contractors.

There are several ways to get an estimate for the cost of a remodel project:

Cost per square foot

This is the most common way to do a quick estimate. This method simply assigns a cost per square foot of area that will be remodeled. The cost can vary between $100 to $700 per square foot.

You can quickly see that this estimate has little value since the range of potential costs is so great. While $700 per square foot is unusual and it is unlikely you could spend that, $100 per square foot is unrealistically low unless you make great efforts to minimize the cost.

The RemodelEstimates.com calculator gives a more accurate estimate by considering information about the rooms that will be remodeled, the level of finish that you want, and how you will manage the project.

Estimate from a contractor or an architect

With a general idea of the rooms that you want to remodel as noted above, you should be able to get an estimate of cost from a contractor or an architect. They will likely use a cost per square foot to calculate an estimate, but they will not use a range as broad as $100 to $700. Find a great contractor fast and for free. To ensure the quote from the contractor is accurate you need to give the complete information about your project. To make these tasks easier and your whole remodeling project run smoother you should invest in a good organizer like The Complete Remodeling Workbook and Organizer.

While this estimate will be much more accurate than an estimate based strictly on the square footage, you will not have the ability to change your preferences and get a new estimate very easily from a contractor or architect. The remodelestimates.com calculator uses the same types of information as an architect or contractor would, and because it is fully automated, it allows you to create estimates for different combinations of materials and room changes for free.

Drywall Screwdriver

Residential Metal Roofing - A Better Option?

If someone where to say to say the words "metal roofing" I bet most people would be thinking of the old and ugly, and often rusting, corrugated metal roof. But metal roofing materials have come a long way and have become much more popular in recent years. They are attractive, light weight, durable and fire resistant. There are many types of options for metal roofing but the main two are aluminum and steel. Each has their own benefits depending on its application.

Aluminum is strong, durable and light weight. These are the same properties that makes aluminum a popular choice in the aerospace industry. And if its good enough for NASA then its excellent as a roofing material. Due to its being very light weight roofing with aluminum does not require the structure's roof to be reinforced which can be a problem when using other heavier materials such as tile or slate. Another major benefit to using aluminum is its resistance to rust and corrosion. This can be a very important advantage for those building is coastal areas that will be subjected to salt spray. And lastly because aluminum is more malleable than steel it can more easily be formed into various designs and shapes.

Steel is another option for a metal roof. But steel itself is not known for its corrosion resistance and will start to rust quite quickly. Therefore the steel that is used as a roofing material is galvanized. This means that the steel is given a protective coated of either zinc or zinc/aluminum to give it the rust and corrosion protection needed for use in roofing. For use in areas of high winds steel can be a better option than other metal roofing materials because of its higher resistance to wind uplift. Galvanized steel roofing is also available in a variety of finishings. It can be painted, aggregate-coated, or with a mill or bare finish. It will also never crack or peel when exposed to sun and weather making a long lasting material.

For home owners looking to save on cooling costs in the summer metal roofs can do just that. With a tradition asphalt shingle heat from the sun can be absorbed into the home heating it up throughout the day. A metal roof will tend to reflect the radiant heat away that would normally collect in the home's attic. Depending on where you live you could save about 40% on your cooling costs.

The biggest stumbling block most home owners have with metal roofing is the cost as it is more expensive than other available roofing options and yes, if you plan on moving in a few years than a metal roof may not be cost effective. But if you are planning on living in your home for a long period of time a metal roof can actually be cheaper. That's because a metal roof can last as long as fifty years or more and requires very little maintenance. In the same time period an asphalt roof may need replacement 2-4 times.

A properly and professionally installed metal roofing, whichever type you choose, will give you decades of protection and beauty to your home. Add to it the energy cost savings and you have a winning combination.

Specializing in Brampton Real Estate Harry Saggu is a professional agent with Century 21 Peoples Choice Realty Inc. and has a background in economics. Please feel free to visit the website for information on the Brampton Ontario Real Estate market.

Framing A Gable Roof

Leveling Your Floor - Home Repair Tips

If you've ever been in a building where you feel like you are getting pushed to one side and you can't seem to stand up. You have either been drinking too much alcohol or the floor could be sloping. I was just in a store the other day that was full of antiques and glass but I could hardly stand up because the floor was sloping enough to create what I would consider a liability issue to the store owner.

Sloping floors are not going to be that easy to fix and repair. Repairing these floors will require a little skill and it would be a good idea to hire a professional to repair the damage. This is not going to be a simple fix and this is probably the main reason most people never choose to fix their sloping floors.

Fixing these floors will require either pouring a new concrete slab, replacing the wood floor framing members or replacing the actual building foundation itself. No matter how you look at it the sloping floor is going to be a costly item to repair.

What causes a sloping floor? Termite damage or dry rot destroying the wood framing or it could be as simple as a water leak over a long period of time causing the building foundation to sink and become out of level. Poor soil conditions with either too sandy or an expansive clay soil could be the culprit also.

Sloping floors can be damaged from incorrect landscape drainage. This would involve water settling around the foundation of your home and over a period of time the weight of the house along with soil problems can create the building to start sloping to one side.

The number one contributor to a sloping floor again like most damage done to a house is going to be water. Do your best to keep the water away from the house using roof gutters and landscape drains. These items are relatively inexpensive compared to the costs involved in repairing sloping floors.

Greg Vanden Berge is working on the internet to promote the education for creating simple to follow guides and home building books to help professional building contractors as well as the weekend warriors. He is currently working on more building stairs books and adding useful content to help solve problems created by the lack of construction knowledge in the building industry.

Find out more about Water Damage.

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